Skagway, Alaska: A Gold Nugget in the National Park System

Visiting America's National Parks is the dream of many travelers from all over the world and all walks of life. These beacons of unspoiled natural beauty, memorials of days gone by, and open spaces for recreation call out to us year after year. Americans and visitors alike answer this call! In 2019, approximately 327.5 million visits were made to U.S. National Parks. But what if I told you that it is possible you visited a National Park and didn't even realize it? If you have been to Skagway, Alaska, this may have been the case!

 
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The National Park Service has a long history of preserving our most precious sites and the history of our country. The congressional "Act of March 1st, 1872" established Yellowstone as "a public park or pleasuring ground for the benefit of the people" It put the land under the direct control of the Department of the Interior. This popular precedent would set the stage for the future of the federally managed public spaces.

The National Park Service was officially established by the "Organic Act of 1916" signed by President Woodrow Wilson on August 25th, 1916. The 35 national parks established at that time would fall under its guise and management. Then in 1933, further land managed by the Forest Service and War Department came into the control of the National Park Service.

Ultimately, the desire to expand and preserve natural and historic spaces would culminate in 1970 with the passing of the "General Authorities Act." This landmark legislation would provide a framework for the future of the National Park Service as it outlines the future preservation of public lands, and preservation of historic lands, buildings and trails.

In the time since 1970, an abundance of federally own properties have come into the fold of NPS management. These include National Seashores, Lakefronts, Monuments, Preserves, scenic trails and National Historic Parks.

Luckily for National Park lovers, Alaska is home to a bountiful amount of these protected natural spaces. From the sheer magnitude and drama of Denali to the marine oasis of the Kenai Fjords, the impact of the National Parks are felt throughout the state and are a source of pride for Alaskans.

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Southeast Alaska is often recognized as a destination for cruise travelers which brings over a million visitors a year to the area. What many people don't know is that when they disembark from their ship in the port of Skagway. they are passing through the Klondike Gold Rush National Historic Park. Established on June 30th, 1976, it is dedicated to the historical preservation of the events of the Klondike Gold Rush of 1897-1900.

The visitor center, staffed with National Park Rangers and Interpretative Guides, is located in the former White Pass and Yukon Route railroad ticket office. This painstakingly restored building has been returned to its turn of the century glory and will make you feel as if you were preparing for the same fateful trip as the gold stampeders. Right next door, in the former railroad administration building, is a museum providing an overview of the journey of close to 100,000 gold seekers that started the arduous journey to the Klondike gold fields 700 miles to the North. In addition to staffing these two locations, park services maintains a multitude of other buildings keeping them looking as they did during the days of the gold rush. They also provide free walking tours and Ranger Chats.

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The thousands of frenzied stampeders that passed through Skagway in search of their claims had to contend with some of the most beautiful yet frightening terrain in North America. Two popular routes were used: the White Pass Trail and the Chilkoot Trail. Both trails were treacherous, with a multitude of impediments and dangers. The White Pass Trail would eventually be replaced by the White Pass and Yukon Route Railroad. While the White Pass Trail was resigned to history, the Chilkoot Trail is still used today; it is now maintained by the National Park Service. This epic 33 mile trail is consistently rated as one of the must do hikes in the world by outdoor enthusiasts. Permits are required to hike the Chilkoot Trail.

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Unfortunately, many single day visitors to Skagway won't truly have the time to experience the details and multiple facets of this sprawling park. This is why we recommend an independent visit to Skagway. Without time restraints, a visitor to Skagway can fully embrace what it was like to be a “down on their luck, out of work, turn of the century dreamer”.

Stampeder Statue by local artist Peter Lucchetti. Located across from the National Park Visitor’s Center.

Stampeder Statue by local artist Peter Lucchetti. Located across from the National Park Visitor’s Center.

Happily, the Skagway of today is much more hospitable that it was 125 years ago. Getting here has been simplified by flights multiple times per day by Alaska Seaplanes and by ferry service on the Alaska Marine Highway. With multiple locally owned accommodations, restaurants, and activities, Skagway has a multitude of options for an extended stay. With a walkable downtown core, and with E-bike and car rentals available year round, navigating every part of Skagway will be a breeze.

Now is the time to book the independent trip of a lifetime to Alaska. With no cruise ships on the horizon for 2021, the opportunity to visit Southeast Alaska without the typical crowds of summer cruise ship passengers might never come again. Make this summer special and come enjoy your park in Skagway, Alaska.

All photographs in this blog post were taken by Nicole Goodman - Off Your Beaten Path Photography

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Where the Boardwalk Ends...The Journey Begins

When visiting Skagway, most people take the train ride or stay in the 8 blocks that are known as the historic district. However, no visit to Skagway would be complete without journeying past downtown. You will notice when visiting Skagway that the historic district is lined with boardwalks reminiscent of days past. However, the real journey begins where the boardwalk ends. This is the perfect day for someone looking for things to do in Skagway, Alaska!

 

When visiting Skagway, most people take the train ride or stay in the 8 blocks that are known as the historic district.  However, no visit to Skagway would be complete without journeying past downtown.  You will notice when visiting Skagway that the historic district is lined with boardwalks reminiscent of days past.  However, the real journey begins where the boardwalk ends.

Photo by Off Your Beaten Path Photography

Photo by Off Your Beaten Path Photography

A great way to explore past those boardwalks is by renting an electric bike from Klondike Electric Bicycles.  Their fleet of Rad Power Bikes have a battery life that extends to 20 miles or more depending upon conditions.  This gives you plenty of opportunity to explore some off the beaten path places that will quickly become the highlight of your whole Alaskan adventure…and the envy of those you share your dinner table with when you get back on board your ship!

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Once you pick up your bike from the corner of 5th and State, a great first stop on your Skagway adventure is the Gold Rush Cemetery.  This cemetery is the final resting place of some of Skagway’s most colorful and notorious characters, including Jefferson “Soapy” Smith.  Step back in time as you read the names of Skagway’s founding fathers.  Then listen for the sound of falling water as you follow the path to Lower Reid Falls. This is the most accessible waterfall in Skagway and is a perfect spot for beautiful photographs! 

You will now head out of town by crossing the Skagway River Bridge.  Shortly after the bridge, you will come to Jewell Gardens.  Seeing as how, Skagway is known as the “Garden City” it is only fitting that you talk a stroll around this manicured show garden filled with flowers, plants, and Alaska sized vegetables.  There is a g-scale white pass train that runs through the garden.  Shopping, glass blowing, and dining are also available at this stop.

After a relaxing stroll around the garden, hop back on your bikes for a short ride to the Pioneer Cemetery.  This is a spot that is not as popular as the Gold Rush Cemetery.  In fact, we lived in Skagway for 3 years before discovering it was there!  This is definitely a place that no other cruise mates will have visited.   This cemetery was used by the town of Skagway after the Gold Rush in the early days of the frontier.  These are the people who put roots down in Skagway after the Gold Rush, which helped to ensure the survival of town.

Photo by Off Your Beaten Path Photography

Photo by Off Your Beaten Path Photography

Now, let’s put these bikes to the test!  This is what they were made for…getting up those hills (with a lot less effort).  Head up that hill on the Dyea Road until you see the overlook.  This is your next stop!  Lucky you, there is even a bathroom here!  It is in this spot that you will see a birds-eye view of the town of Skagway and its port…including an opportunity to take a postcard quality picture of your cruise ship among the majestic backdrop. 

Photo by George Butt

Photo by George Butt

Most of the people that visit Skagway, do not venture past this point…but this area is where the untouched beauty begins.  This road leads to the town of Dyea, Alaska.  Dyea was a booming town in the gold rush era.  The word Dyea literally translates “to pack”.  It was in this area that Tlingit people came to trade with Interior First Nations people.  In this region, the Chilkoot Trail was one of only three passes that could be used all winter.  Because of this accessibility, it also became a staging point for many of the prospectors who were on the quest to find gold in 1898.  Unfortunately, after the White Pass Railroad was built, the need for the Chilkoot Trail as a means of transport became obsolete. Soon after, Dyea became a ghost town…all but reclaimed by the forest.

Photo by Off Your Beaten Path Photography

Photo by Off Your Beaten Path Photography

Let’s continue on our adventure, so you can experience all that Dyea has to offer!  You will soon find yourself gliding down a dirt road…taking in all of the fresh air and spectacular views all around!  You will see an area called Nakhu Bay, which is the Northern tip of the Taiya Inlet.  This is a great place to park your bikes and venture down by the water.  If it is a clear day, you will be able to see the Chilkat Mountain Range over near Haines, Alaska.  No guided tours are allowed in this area, so this is truly an experience for the independent traveler.  No large groups of tourists around!

Photo by Off Your Beaten Path Photography

Photo by Off Your Beaten Path Photography

By now, you must be getting hungry!  Let’s ride a little farther and experience some more amazing views as you head towards the Chilkoot Trail Outpost.  Keep an eye on the water as you ride, because you may see seals and eagles in this area.  The Chilkoot Trail Outpost is owned by longtime Dyea residents, Kathy and Fred Hosford.  In addition to having several sleeping cabins at the outpost, they also have a restaurant and bar.  This gives you the perfect opportunity to try their famous Halibut Melt!

Photo By Off Your Beaten Path Photography

Photo By Off Your Beaten Path Photography

Once your bellies are full, head on out to the Dyea Flats.  On your way, make sure you get a picture at the sign at the Trailhead of the Chilkoot Trail. This is the place where so many gold seekers started their journey over 120 years ago and where many present-day adventure seekers start their 33 mile trek across the mountains.  Once you cross the Taiya River Bridge, the last section of this ride to Dyea will take you through a dense temperate rain forest.  You will have opportunities to stop at the Slide Cemetery and the old Dyea Townsite.  Keep riding and the forest will open up to an expansive tidal flat.  Depending on the time of year, you may see salmon, bears, foxes, eagles and more in this area!  A truly untouched and unspoiled place on the outskirts of Skagway.  Dyea is a little piece of paradise! 

When you are done exploring, you can make your way back towards Skagway!  Enjoy the views because it will look and feel different on your way back!  Once you arrive back at the bike shop, you can grab a cupcake from Lucy’s Bakery (also inside the bike shop)…and then spend the rest of your time in town, knowing that you had a day much different than most!

 
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