Nicole Goodman 2/9/21 Nicole Goodman 2/9/21

Cancelled Cruises Got You Down? A Do-it-Yourself Guide to Visiting Southeast Alaska

By now, many of you have grown frustrated by the uncertainty related to your travel plans as they relate to cruise cancellations and future travel to Alaska. As cruise aficionados ourselves, we can relate. There is a strong urge for us and everyone to escape the routine and hit the high seas. Unfortunately, as things progress, the likelihood of an Alaska cruise season in 2021 seems to be dwindling. However, if you are like us, you're not going to let anyone stand in your way of the vacation you deserve! Southeast Alaska is here and waiting for you. And this could be the perfect year for you to travel here!

Let us show you how to experience all of the majesty of Alaska over the course of this amazing 10 day itinerary.

Planning a trip to Southeast Alaska can seem overwhelming, but with a few helpful tips and some basic knowledge about how to get around, it won't be an issue. In fact, we think the planning and anticipation can be fun!

First things first! The main travel hub for the Southeast part of the state is the capital city, Juneau. Alaska Airlines has a multitude of flights in and out of Juneau, which makes getting here pretty easy! Your travel will begin and end in this jewel of a town situated alongside the Gastineau channel.

Day 1 - Juneau, Alaska:
Upon arrival at the Shel Simmons Airport, decide how you would prefer to get around. If you're not keen on driving, a cab ride from Evergreen Taxi is a great option. If you prefer the freedom that a car provides, then I suggest making a call to Juneau Car Rentals. We use them exclusively when in Juneau. The cars might be a little older, but are well maintained and insanely clean. The best part about using Juneau Car Rentals is that they will leave the car for you to pick up at the airport, and let you drop it off anywhere in Juneau. You don't ever have to go to a rental desk or see an employee, it's all done over the phone or online! On top of all that, it's extremely reasonable in price!

Now that you have a ride, where are you going to stay? If you are a fan of hotels, we recommend the 4 Points Sheraton Downtown. It's in a beautiful location within walking distance of great food and all downtown has to offer. Pro tip: ask for a water view room, you won't be disappointed! If you prefer an Airbnb, there are plenty of choices in Juneau. Just keep in mind that choosing some of these might mean that a car rental is needed.

Take the rest of the day to get aquatinted with town, and have dinner at Hangar on the Wharf .

Day 2 - Juneau - Tracy Arm Fjord Excursion:
Join the crew of Adventure Bound Alaska as they provide a full day excursion to the Tracy Arm Fjord and the stunning South Sawyer Glacier. The experienced captain and deckhands will provide expert knowledge of the area as you sail through some of the most epic scenery Alaska has to offer. Wildlife sightings are highly likely to include mountain goats, bears, eagles, seals, and whales. The adventure culminates with a close encounter with the blue ice face of the South Sawyer Glacier. This day trip will truly be a highlight of your Alaska travels.

After a day on the water, you will likely be hungry. This calls for a trip to one of our favorite restaurants in Juneau: In Bocca Al Lupo. The wood fired Neapolitan pizza is some of the best we've ever had outside of Naples, Italy. Be sure to save room for dessert as it is a new creation nightly. Bon Appetit and rest well for tomorrow’s adventure.

Day 3 - Juneau:
Before your adventure begins today, we recommend a quick trip to Donna’s Restaurant for breakfast! They serve up all of your favorite breakfast and diner food! For us, no trip to Juneau is complete without a visit here! This will be good fuel to start your day. Pro tip: Grab a brownie for later. They are life changing!

Experience nature at your own pace as you visit Mendenhall Glacier. Located in the Mendenhall Valley about 7 miles from downtown, it is accessible via taxi, rental car, or tour bus. Pro Tip: If you only wanted to rent a car for one day today would be the day. Park in one of the two parking lots on the left before the main lot and make your way to the visitors center. From here plan your visit as options vary. Enjoy the view from here, or take a short easy 2 mile round trip hike to the base of the thunderous Nugget Falls.

Enjoy the serenity of Mendenhall Lake and keep an eye out for bears and mountain goats. Budget about two hours to really absorb all this site has to offer. Before heading back to the car look for the nature walks along side the parking lots. Follow the paths along the salmon filled streams and rivulets and, if you're lucky, see some of the resident bears and their cubs as they forage and hunt for salmon. Park rangers often patrol this area to provide a safe place to view this amazing natural experience.

Moving on, let's get back in the car and head to across the channel to Douglas Island. Have lunch at The Island Pub, and go for a walk along Sandy Beach. Watch locals and their dogs enjoy the sand as you walk down to the iconic Treadwell Mine Pumphouse. This monolithic tower stands in the channel as a reminder of Juneau's historic gold mining beginnings.

Take the rest of the day to explore some awesome shopping in the tourist district and have dinner at the infamous Red Dog Saloon. While there, look for the pistol on the wall believed to be own by Wyatt Earp and have a celebratory "duck fart" shot to commemorate an amazing time in Juneau.

Day 4 - Travel to Skagway via Alaska Seaplanes:
No visit to Southeast Alaska would be complete without seeing this majestic land from the air. It's an awe inspiring experience that can't be put into words. All I can say is that on my last flight, even the pilot that travels this route sometimes twice daily, got his phone out and took photos. Usually about a 40 minute flight, this is both a sightseeing and transportation combo making it a great value.

Once you arrive in Skagway, check in at either Mile Zero Bed and Breakfast or the Morning Wood Hotel. Get settled in check out the Klondike Gold Rush National Historic Park Visitors Center to get a feel for the town and it's history.

Then head to The Days of 98 Show to see one of the longest running shows in Alaska dating back to 1923! This is a great introduction to one of the most important parts of Skagway history. The show is interactive and full of energy!

Grab a bite at The Station Bar and Grill and then head over to the Happy Endings Saloon for a night cap before you call it a day!

Day 5 - E-bike Adventure:
A 5 minute walk gets you to a bright green building on the corner of 5th Ave and State St. This is the home of Klondike Electric Bicycles. Head inside and get setup on a fun and easy to ride electric bicycle as you prepare to explore town. The friendly staff will give you a great list of exciting places to visit including the Gold Rush Cemetery, City Overlook, the gold rush ghost town of Dyea, and some amazing scenery. But before you leave on your adventure, grab a cookie or cupcake from Lucy’s Bakery, which is conveniently located in the same building!

While out in Dyea, you can stop by the Chilkoot Trail Outpost and have lunch and a beverage! Check out more about a great adventure to Dyea here: Where the Boardwalk Ends...the Journey Begins

Once you are back from your exploration around town, be sure to check out the gift shop inside Klondike Electric Bicycles. They have lots of Alaskan made gifts perfect for commemorating your trip!

After a fun day on an E-bike, have dinner at the world famous Skagway Brewing Company. They are famous for their Spruce Tip Ale, so be sure to try one while you are there! Pro Tip: get a flight of award winning brews and get a growler of your favorite to go! All of the food here is delicious, so you can’t go wrong. There is something for everyone here!!!

Photo courtesy of Rebecca Hylton - Marketing and Tour Director - Skagway Brewing Company

Day 6 - A train ride back in time:
A cup of coffee and a pastry from Glacial Coffeehouse is the perfect way to start your second full day in Skagway!

Dedicate today to an unforgettable ride aboard the White Pass and Yukon Route Scenic Railroad. Built in 2 years, 2 months, and 2 days between 1898 and 1900 this epic journey follows the historic White Pass Trail that gold rush stampeders used to get to Klondike Gold fields. Make sure your camera is fully charged and your memory cards are empty so you can fill them with memories!

After your train ride, we recommend a hike to Yakutania Point and then an ice cream or milk shake from Kone Kompany! You should then have plenty of time to visit some of our favorite locally owned shops around town. Some of our favorites include Corrington’s Alaskan Ivory, A Fine Line, Inspired Arts, Duff’s Backcountry Outfitters, Taiya River Arts, Gold Rush Gifts , Alaskan Fairytales and Klothes Rush.

A trip to Skagway is never complete without a visit to the Red Onion Saloon. The Red Onion was built in 1897 during the height of the Gold Rush. It served as one of many brothels in town. It is now a bar and restaurant…and is consistently a favorite among locals and tourists! A good time is definitely had by all! A brothel tour is a must!

Day 7 - Travel to Haines, Alaska:
Grab some breakfast from the Sweet Tooth Cafe before leaving Skagway.

A great option for travel amongst ports along the inside passage is the Alaska Marine Highway System. This state run ferry, sometimes called "The Blue Canoe", will be your mode of transport between Skagway and Haines.

Haines, Alaska is an absolute gem. Only a small amount of cruise ships visit each year ensuring that its small town feel endures. Once you arrive, arrange for the friendly folks at Captain's Choice Motel to come and pick you up. Get setup with a water view room AND a rental car at the same desk!

Haines is well know for it's huge population of American Bald Eagles so hop in the car and take a short ride to the American Bald Eagle Foundation, take a tour, and learn more about our national bird. Afterwards, if it's early enough in the day, take a ride up the Haines Highway and look for eagles in the Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve. There is nothing like seeing this amazing animal in its natural habitat.

Once your day of sightseeing is complete, head over to the world famous Bamboo Room for an amazing meal of Halibut fish and chips. This truly old school Alaska restaurant will delight you with it's eclectic feel and authentic vibe.

Day 8 - Chilkoot Lake:

Start your day off with breakfast from Pilot Light or the Chilkat Restaurant and Bakery. You can’t go wrong with either of these choices!

There are many special and scenic places in Southeast Alaska, but whenever I tell people about the Chilkoot river and lake, I feel like a magician revealing a secret. Literally located at the end of Lutak Road, this State Park encompasses a massive lake hidden by mountain peaks and a small river strewn with boulders that leads to the sea. Often patrolled by brown bears looking for a salmon dinner, this paradise is not to be missed. Check with local operators, Chilkoot Lake Tours or Alaska Nature Tours , to find out about full day fishing and sightseeing tours as well.

Hopefully you have worked up an appetite! Tonight on the agenda is Alpenglow Pizza. We also recommend a visit to Haines Brewing Company and Port Chilkoot Distillery. Get a good nights sleep as we prepare for our next adventure.

Day 9 - Fjordlines back to Juneau:

Alaska Fjordlines is based in Haines, Alaska. This 65 foot diesel powered passenger catamaran was specially built to the needs of navigating the waters of Southeast Alaska. Part captain part tour guide, your skipper will make your ride to Juneau fun and entertaining. Always willing to stop for whales and other wildlife this is more than just a shuttle ride, it's an adventure. It's about an 80 mile trip but with the glaciers and peaks that flank you on both sides, you will wish the ride was longer. After arriving just outside of Juneau in Auke Bay, the captain will have you board his bus and transport you to either the airport or downtown Juneau. We recommend the airport stop because you can disembark here and walk across the parking lot and check in at the Extended Stay America for your flight out the next day.

Day 10 - Homeward bound:

From the extended stay you can walk back to the airport and wait for your flight, or if you have a few hours walk over to the local convenience store Breeze In. This place is a baked good and coffee paradise for locals and visitors alike. If you prefer a sit down restaurant, you can always go to Donna’s again, as it is within walking distance! The Juneau airport is really quick to get through, so arrive about an hour before your flight and you'll be on your way.

Independent travel to Alaska doesn't have to be difficult, but it does take some foresight and knowledge. Hopefully our insider tips can help you choose your own adventure. We truly love Alaska and would be happy to help you if you have any specific questions. Happy travels!

There are so many things to do an see while on vacation in Southeast Alaska! Here are some other ideas:

Skagway: Hike - Lower Dewey, Upper Dewey, AB Mountain, and the Chilkoot Trails. Take a helicopter ride with Temsco. Get a Fry bread from Klondike Doughboy. Visit Jewell Gardens for Glass Blowing. See the Legends & Lies show at the Skagway Inn. Visit the Skagway Museum. Check out the Fairway Market or Grizzly’s General Store. Eat Thai food at Starfire or Indian food at Bombay Curry. Grab a bagel sandwich from Bites on Broadway. Also check out the Skagway Visitor’s Center for more ideas!

Juneau: Take the Mt. Roberts Tram and then hike down. Hike Mt. Juneau, Perseverance Trail, or Mt. Jumbo. Go eat at Tracy’s King Crab Shack. Grab a beer at Devil’s Club Brewing Company or a drink from Amalga Distillery. Eat breakfast at The Rookery.

Haines: Visit The Kroschel Wildlife Center. Grab a coffee from the Rusty Compass Coffeehouse. Take an ATV tour on Takshunuk Mountain Trail. Shop at Ampersand. Visit Fort Seward. Buy a fishing pole and license from OleRud’s.

We hope to see you soon!

All photos, with the exception of the Skagway Brewing Company photos, are provided by Off Your Beaten Path Photography.

Nicole Goodman 9/1/20 Nicole Goodman 9/1/20

Where the Boardwalk Ends...The Journey Begins

When visiting Skagway, most people take the train ride or stay in the 8 blocks that are known as the historic district. However, no visit to Skagway would be complete without journeying past downtown. You will notice when visiting Skagway that the historic district is lined with boardwalks reminiscent of days past. However, the real journey begins where the boardwalk ends. This is the perfect day for someone looking for things to do in Skagway, Alaska!

Photo by Off Your Beaten Path Photography

A great way to explore past those boardwalks is by renting an electric bike from Klondike Electric Bicycles. Their fleet of Rad Power Bikes have a battery life that extends to 20 miles or more depending upon conditions. This gives you plenty of opportunity to explore some off the beaten path places that will quickly become the highlight of your whole Alaskan adventure…and the envy of those you share your dinner table with when you get back on board your ship!

Once you pick up your bike from the corner of 5th and State, a great first stop on your Skagway adventure is the Gold Rush Cemetery. This cemetery is the final resting place of some of Skagway’s most colorful and notorious characters, including Jefferson “Soapy” Smith. Step back in time as you read the names of Skagway’s founding fathers. Then listen for the sound of falling water as you follow the path to Lower Reid Falls. This is the most accessible waterfall in Skagway and is a perfect spot for beautiful photographs!

You will now head out of town by crossing the Skagway River Bridge. Shortly after the bridge, you will come to Jewell Gardens. Seeing as how, Skagway is known as the “Garden City” it is only fitting that you talk a stroll around this manicured show garden filled with flowers, plants, and Alaska sized vegetables. There is a g-scale white pass train that runs through the garden. Shopping, glass blowing, and dining are also available at this stop.

After a relaxing stroll around the garden, hop back on your bikes for a short ride to the Pioneer Cemetery. This is a spot that is not as popular as the Gold Rush Cemetery. In fact, we lived in Skagway for 3 years before discovering it was there! This is definitely a place that no other cruise mates will have visited. This cemetery was used by the town of Skagway after the Gold Rush in the early days of the frontier. These are the people who put roots down in Skagway after the Gold Rush, which helped to ensure the survival of town.

Now, let’s put these bikes to the test! This is what they were made for…getting up those hills (with a lot less effort). Head up that hill on the Dyea Road until you see the overlook. This is your next stop! Lucky you, there is even a bathroom here! It is in this spot that you will see a birds-eye view of the town of Skagway and its port…including an opportunity to take a postcard quality picture of your cruise ship among the majestic backdrop.

Most of the people that visit Skagway, do not venture past this point…but this area is where the untouched beauty begins. This road leads to the town of Dyea, Alaska. Dyea was a booming town in the gold rush era. The word Dyea literally translates “to pack”. It was in this area that Tlingit people came to trade with Interior First Nations people. In this region, the Chilkoot Trail was one of only three passes that could be used all winter. Because of this accessibility, it also became a staging point for many of the prospectors who were on the quest to find gold in 1898. Unfortunately, after the White Pass Railroad was built, the need for the Chilkoot Trail as a means of transport became obsolete. Soon after, Dyea became a ghost town…all but reclaimed by the forest.

Let’s continue on our adventure, so you can experience all that Dyea has to offer! You will soon find yourself gliding down a dirt road…taking in all of the fresh air and spectacular views all around! You will see an area called Nakhu Bay, which is the Northern tip of the Taiya Inlet. This is a great place to park your bikes and venture down by the water. If it is a clear day, you will be able to see the Chilkat Mountain Range over near Haines, Alaska. No guided tours are allowed in this area, so this is truly an experience for the independent traveler. No large groups of tourists around!

By now, you must be getting hungry! Let’s ride a little farther and experience some more amazing views as you head towards the Chilkoot Trail Outpost. Keep an eye on the water as you ride, because you may see seals and eagles in this area. The Chilkoot Trail Outpost is owned by longtime Dyea residents, Kathy and Fred Hosford. In addition to having several sleeping cabins at the outpost, they also have a restaurant and bar. This gives you the perfect opportunity to try their famous Halibut Melt!

Once your bellies are full, head on out to the Dyea Flats. On your way, make sure you get a picture at the sign at the Trailhead of the Chilkoot Trail. This is the place where so many gold seekers started their journey over 120 years ago and where many present-day adventure seekers start their 33 mile trek across the mountains. Once you cross the Taiya River Bridge, the last section of this ride to Dyea will take you through a dense temperate rain forest. You will have opportunities to stop at the Slide Cemetery and the old Dyea Townsite. Keep riding and the forest will open up to an expansive tidal flat. Depending on the time of year, you may see salmon, bears, foxes, eagles and more in this area! A truly untouched and unspoiled place on the outskirts of Skagway. Dyea is a little piece of paradise!

When you are done exploring, you can make your way back towards Skagway! Enjoy the views because it will look and feel different on your way back! Once you arrive back at the bike shop, you can grab a cupcake from Lucy’s Bakery (also inside the bike shop)…and then spend the rest of your time in town, knowing that you had a day much different than most!